More Kangaroo Island Capers

We've been on this stunning island in the Southern Ocean for nearly two weeks. And we have just loved it. When you look forward to something so much, as I did with KI, there's always a chance that you'll be let down. Not so with this place, if anything it's surpassed my expectations. It's a nature lovers paradise! We've seen seals, dolphins, almost a shark, echidnas, koalas, KI kangaroos, Tammar Wallabies, snakes and big lizards plus birds, birds, birds.

* A very photogenic Australian Sea Lion.

We've done all the touristy stuff ; Seal Bay - a conservation area for the endangered Aust Sea Lions where you're allowed onto their beach, visited the Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch and the fire ravaged Flinders Chase National Park, we've done lighthouse tours and eaten the famous Whiting Burger at Australia's #1 beach Vivonne Bay (where we camped last night and might just stay another), visited a honey farm and nearly all the car accessible beaches on the island. As well as being a place of great beauty it is also an area providing wealth to the community with the mainstays being fat lambs, cray fishing, sheeps milk cheeses and other foodie delights.

*Below left- VJ on her way to the rockpools where I found I could have my hands + nails cleaned for free by just dipping them in and letting the effective cleaner shrimp do their jobs. Mostly it tickled, the bigger ones have big nippers that can pinch though.
*Below right - I think Western River Cove will be one of our favourite camps. A gorgeous and protected cove with sparkly clear water for swimming. That's the "White Pointer" you can see in the photo, a crayfish boat belonging to a colourful local.



















*Us at Vivonne Bay beach. Rated by some scientists as Australia's Best Beach. It is a pretty stretch of surf and sand but not suitable for swimming and was the location of a white pointer (just a baby ~3m) sighting here by a fisherman last week. We heard him warning other tourists about the shark and that swimming here probably not a hot idea. I looked for ages but alas did not see the mighty fish. There is a river, that I'm assured in winter runs to the ocean, with a sandy bottom good for swimming.
* Payniac at Bales Bay, K.I






























*Sea Lions at Seal Bay. This was our second visit to see the seals. This is a breeding colony of ~600 animals (explains the sharky water) and you get about 45 minutes on the beach with them. They are very funny to watch and there's always something going on- the bulls fighting for mating rights, babies calling for their mums, juveniles porpoising through the shallow surf within the safety of the reef. We only saw one of the giant eyed, dark brown velvet newborns at a very safe distance and if he/she hadn't been moving it would've just looked like all the other kelp on the beach. I generally associate a bad smell with a seal colony, perhaps because it's on the beach rather than rocky ledges or some other reason, but this one really didn't whiff at all...except when the bulls released their sexy musky scent to establish superiority - yuk!


* More views of Western River Cove. A popular local spot for fishing, they were just hauling the mullet out. We had it almost to ourselves in the mornings and then a tour group might come through. We stayed here for 4 nights over two separate visits we loved it so much.







*The toopy all set up at Western River, as you can see we're right on the banks. We initially thought that this site on the north coast of the island would be protected from the prevailing southerlies. Wrong. The wind just howled down the valley rattling us around in our little tent with one night seeing us give in and pack up to sleep in the BBQ shelter on the ground with all the ants and possums and on others to lie awake for hours just wondering how much she can take. She took it all, the worry was for nought.


* A pretty sunset over Western River.













*The crazy road to the Remarkable Rocks, eroded granite formations with perfectly contrasting orange lichen growing over. This is in the Flinders Chase National Park (one of the 2 parks our cheeky SA National Parks holiday pass does not cover) which was devastated by fire in December '07. As you can see the views along the coast are quite dramatic.




*Goofy photos at the Remarkable Rocks. You can pretty much walk and climb all around them, just not allowed to go too close to the edge as the algae makes it very slippery, one big wave and WHOOSHKA over you go(as did one tourist a few years ago). It was a little bit Flinstones.































*Left - Admirals Arch, also in Flinders Chase. Eroded by the sea and wind, eventually it will erode right through and create another island off the coast of KI. My favourite bit of this visit was the seals - blow up the photo, those brown slugs are NZ fur seals. Again a breeding colony. This colony was once almost decimated by sealers but it looks pretty healthy now.
*Payniac at Stokes Bay being silly.


*Below - another shot of Western River Cove.

Western River Cove will forever be a special place for me as on Valentines Day I had wangled myself a spot on a dive boat for a double dive.Andy didn't really think about it much after he heard the water was just 19-20C - warm enough for me! I was under the (false) impression that diving could be organised from KI, these guys had come from Adelaide (Mark Snadden from Divers Service) for a 4 day diveathon and I was very lucky to catch them on their last day. They specialise in Leafy Seadragons, seals and dolphins.

I was up super early on Saturday morning, a bit excited as I hadn't dived in so long and going through my gear. Glad I did as I discovered my computer had a flat battery requiring some quick fix-it and swapping of transmitters and computers. I was picked up on the beach at 8am and rowed out to the boat sitting in the cove. Almost immediately a huge pod of dolphins started carrying on at the back of the boat. A good day!

The diving is classic temperate water diving, a vast kelp bed with greater diversity than I'm used to seeing, weedy sea dragons galore as well as all the standard temperate fishes. As we dropped down all my nerves dissipated as an Australian Fur Seal came to say hello! I found out later this is quite rare as these animals tend to be quite shy.

He sort of lay down on the bottom and posed for any photos we might require. This is when I realised that my camera had failed. NOOOOOOO! I was determined to enjoy the dive anyhow. A leafy sea dragon was spotted and although I knew where the animal was meant to be and what it looked like I still had trouble finding it! A beautiful, ridiculously ornate fish that looks like a seaweedy rocking seahorse that people come from all over the world to
photograph....! Arggghh. (This is one I found on google so you know what I'm talking about!)

The surface interval (break between dives for those strange folk who don't scuba) was full of sights as we moved towards a rocky headland. As soon as we stopped NZ fur seals started splashing their way toward the boat to check us out.

We decided to do a "seal dive" for the 2nd dive. I had never dived with seals, any chance I ever get I will do it again. 4 divers, a channel about 2m wide, I didn't go deeper than 10m and about a dozen NZ fur seals swimming over and under, hurtling up and down, their fur sleek and silver with bubbles. I didn't know where to look. The fastest 40 mins of my life. They're awkward on land, beneath the surface they're so, so fast, agile, graceful, funny and extremely curious. They like it when you try and play with them although there's no way I could keep up. They like to stop on the bottom while you catch your breath and just check you out with their enormous caramel eyes. They blow bubbles back at you in response to the constant stream from your regulator. I am still spewing about the camera failing, bright side is I just got to enjoy this incredible dive with the seals.

Sharks you ask? I did look over my shoulder a few times, not that that would've helped. A few times when all the seals disappeared at the same time I thought oh-oh, but they were just playing hide and seek. The sharks are there for sure, big ones, so it doesn't hurt to be wary, this is home of the white pointer. If I'd seen one it would've saved me from doing the white sharks off Port Lincoln next week, sorry Mum.
Payniac had a nice Valentine's Day too - he got to sleep in and listen to podcasts without me bugging him all morning. There was nobody to make the second cup of joe though.

*VJ at West Bay where we spent Andy's Happy Birthday. We went down to the beach with a few beers to watch the sunset....which didn't really happen. Note my get up - fleece and long duds!








*VJ on her way to Stokes Bay. Not sure how the surfers managed to get their boards through this maze of rock, it was quite tight in spots.

Kangaroo Island capers

We awoke on Sunday to learn that the Victorian bush fires had claimed 43 lives. As I write this the toll is standing at 173 and is headed for more than 200.

This has obviously led to a fairly somber couple of days with us tuned in to the ABC to hear the harrowing stories emerging from the affected areas. The scale and ferocity of the fires has been numbing, and to think on the Saturday night I was talking to a (drunk) climate change skeptic.



We were privileged to have passed directly through or close by many of the communities that have been so badly affected by this tragedy and have received help and shared a yarn with many of the good people we've met. It's just baffling to think that some of these fires have been set deliberately by people from within the community. Not much else to say really.

* The Red Lobster at Kingston SE (which is for sale if anyone has some lazy cash).

We left Naracoorte last Thursday after two wonderful nights and headed over to the coast for a planned stop at Coorong National Park back on the coast to cool off. However given the extremely dry weather the lakes had evaporated leaving a nasty whiff in the air so we pushed on to catch the last ferry over to Kangaroo Island. We did briefly contemplate a trip to Adelaide first but with more 43 degree days forecast there (and nightly minimums of a staggering 32 degrees) we opted for KI.

It was a bit further to the ferry terminal at Cape Jervis than I'd expected and we ended up with a new PB for daily kms - a whopping 525km for the day by the time we pulled up a Browns Beach. (If we kept that up everyday, as well as being broke we'd end up covering the equivalent of five trips around the equator in our year on the road.)

The ferry ride lasted about 45 minutes and was pretty smooth. The only difficult bit was reversing the Troopie into our alloted space on the deck but I received lots of help and encouragement from the staff and it didn't delay things too long.

Kangaroo Island is Australia's third largest island, after Tasmania and ..... actually I'll let you guess the second. I'm sure VJ will fill you in with the proper details in due course but the island has some wonderful and unique wildlife given it was cut off from the mainland around 9,000 years ago. My favourite so far is the Tammar Kangaroo, which is basically a minature version of the eastern grey, and stands about a foot tall. The geology of the place is also pretty choice, steep limestone cliffs, caves, some volcanic rock formations etc etc.

* Beached is bro - needed to git wit asap. Not quite sure how this humpback got so far up the beach but he looked like he'd been there a while.

On Tash's advice we went to Seal Bay on our first day on KI where we spent a couple of hours with the colony of Australian sea lions.

A top spot, if a little busy with tourists so we'll go back again when it's a bit quieter. Most people seem to come to KI for a few days but we've given ourselves two weeks to make the most of it.














The forecast was pretty dodgy with a strong southerly change forecast so we headed across to the top of the island to Western River (another recommendation from Tash).

It was a sensational secluded beach which we pretty much had to ourselves. The southerly came through as predicted at around 10pm and turned the tent into a sail. We hadn't been able to bash the tent pegs in far enough into the rock floor of the campsite so there was nothing to do but pack up the tent before too much damage was done and sleep on the floor in the picnic shelter.

* The view from campsite at Western River.












* A stowaway that was hiding in the pocket of the one of our camp chairs. He unfortunately didn't survive my attempt to relocate him.










After our two nights at Western River we headed off to explore the north west part of the island, camping at Harvey's Return and then West Bay last night which is in Flinders Chase National Park.

We took in the entertaining tour at Cape Borda lighthouse (the only remaining 'real' lighthouse in South Australia apparently) and then spent the remainder of my birthday at West Bay watching the huge waves rolling in.


There was even the brief threat of a sunset over sea but we were denied at the last minute. Not to worry, we'll be WA in just over a month and then we should get one every night.




















Today we explored the far south west corner of KI including the Remarkable Rocks and Cape de Couedic which has a colony of New Zealand seals. VJ was feeling a bit out of sorts and looks like she's been in a boxing match - right eye a bit droopy. Probably a spider bite but we'll keep a good watch on it.

In finance news, Challenger shares got down below a dollar each today which now means they're down 85% from their high. Next place I work I think maybe I should design incentive plans that pay people in cash rather than shares.

And finally, if you were wondering, the second largest island in Australia is Melville Island, which is off to the top left of Darwin.

And with Darwin being named after Charles Darwin I'll wish everyone a 'Happy Darwin Day' for Thursday. May you naturally select an appropriate way to celebrate the most significant scientific discovery of all time.

Portland - Mt.Gambier - Naracoorte

* A funny sign outside the information centre at Naracoorte Caves. We didn't see any of the ugly but harmless critters but would've liked to. He he he.








After leaving Portland (the caravan park had koalas in the trees) we did a bit of sightseeing around the area. We stopped at Cape Nelson where there is a light station and magnificent views over the Southern Ocean. The girl I bought coffees from said that Blue Whales (!!) had been sighted almost daily. Despite binoculars and determination it was not to be. I did get to watch some weather roll in though and wander about the cliffs.
*The light station at Cape Nelson.


We also visited Cape Bridgewater, famous for its 650 strong seal colony. An energetic 45 min walk out to the colony was good exercise and provided fantastic views back over the bay but again the wildlife was elusive. We counted 3 seals. This walk on top of the previous few days touring took its toll and we both had sore pins at the end of it all.

*The view from Cape Bridgewater



Our intentions after leaving Portland were to stay in Victoria for one more night to prevent having to throw all our fresh fruit and veg out (again!). As we got closer and closer to the Vic-S.A border it became apparent that camping options were a bit skinny. So we dumped the good stuff in Nelson and hopped over to S.A.


Mt.Gambier and the surrounding region has held some fascination for me since learning to scuba as it's a fresh water, cave diving mecca. We stopped in at Piccaninnie Ponds for a look - you need a permit to snorkel here, and if you want to dive you MUST be a certified cave diver. I had heard from some ladies I met down at Jervis Bay on a dive trip that it was an incredible experience and I was pretty keen to give it a go. Not without a permit though.


*A selfy in front of the impossibly blue Blue Lake in Mt.Gambier. The blue comes from dead algae and takes on this incredible cobalt hue in the summer months. The lake itself is in the crater of a volcano.We stayed the night in Mt.Gambier and waited for the sun to come out to see if was really as blue as they said. Yep. We also visited some other volcano related sights around town including sinkholes that had been lovingly turned into garden oasis.


As we'd already visited Piccaninnie Ponds and I couldn't convince Andy that a snorkel in the cold water would do him any good, Ewens Ponds seemed like a good compromise. A series of 3 ponds connected by shallow channels. I would be going it alone.

* A sideways selfy of the happy little snorkeler in Ewens Ponds. Andy loves this photo and can't believe how lucky he is to be marrying me.

The water is very clear (40m vis) and cold and is part of the unconfined aquifer, ground water that runs from Naracoorte in the north to the ocean near Port MacDonnell in the south. It is this same ground water in the Blue Lake, Mt.Gambier and Piccaninnie Ponds.


*What can you see? Not a whole bunch. There were some little fishes and I'm sure if I'd known what to look for I could have found other life. The water was cold and it was very hot outside with plagues of bush flies making it unpleasant for my shore based buddy. It was definitely worth the trouble of putting on my wetsuit just for the bizarre experience it afforded. I am glad however that I didn't insist on getting air and scuba-ing as I am on a roll with picking good things to do. There is also an underwater cave system beneath Mt.Gambier but this is not for the fainthearted or inexperienced. Every little experience we miss contributes to the Whaleshark/Manta Ray fund for Coral Bay (which is really just around the corner). After my snorkel we lunched in Port MacDonnell - southern rock lobster capital of Australia.

*Campground at Naracoorte Caves.
We liked the camping area here so much that we decided to stay another night. So far we've only regretted NOT staying an extra night in a spot rather than regretting staying too long. As it was again forecast for 37C the proviso was that we spend some time in the caves doing tours during the hottest part of the day. Deal.
This camp ground has showers and power and it's all included in our new parks pass, so it feels like it's free! The bird life is astounding, especially the tiny songsters I am yet to correctly ID but various wrens and wagtails as well as the usual parrots and magpies (whose gorgeous warble is starting to sound like the soundtrack to this trip).







*The entrance to Naracoorte Caves visitor centre. The caves have world heritage rating due to the significance of the fossil deposits here. The biggest deposit of it's kind in the whole world it has a comprehensive representation of the last 530,000 years. Not huge geologically speaking, but incredible as it includes the now extinct Australian mega fauna. Paleontology is a pet interest of mine, so I was in heaven. And Payniac loves caves (you find out all sorts of stuff about each other on a trip like this). To escape the heat of the day, and because we're nerdy keen we took a tour of the Bat Cave and the Victoria Fossil Cave.
The Bat Cave tour included a stint in the bat cave control room where the controls for infra red cameras are and scientists and rangers are able to monitor the bat's behaviour. The cave is significant in it's own right as the bats are critically endangered southern bent wing bats. We also toured the Blanche cave which was originally used by the Naracoorte folks for picnics and as a town hall, a nice cool place in the hot summer.

*Victoria Fossil Cave and Marsupial Lion.
This cave was very pretty with the second half of the tour focusing on the fossils and the discovery of the various chambers of the cave. The fossil chamber wasn't discovered until 1969 and the work continues, an estimated 40,000 animals to be sifted through. Big job.
We also walked back to the Bat Cave at sunset to watch the little bats come out for their nightly feeding - an Attenborough moment for sure.



*VJ hard at play. A good afternoon when I have all the chairs and my book.
Life on the road takes its toll and we find it's very important to have our own time and space, especially after being in the car on a hot day for hours. It has taken us a few weeks to hit our stride again, similar to when we set out in September, even though we had a better idea what to expect. I suppose it's just an adjustment period, and we really pushed our limits in the first few weeks in January in the Vic High Country, with more than a few hot and stressful moments. The travelling is now easier and it's much cooler this morning...I wonder where we'll end up today? Time to hit the road.

On to The Great Ocean Road and the Twelve Impossibles

It might be hard being a Jew at Christmas (or in Venezuela currently), but how hard is it being an Aussie when the cricket's on at the moment? I'm currently watching the first dig against the Kiwi's after what really should have been a 5-0 defeat to the Saffers. Torrid stuff but the Kiwi's are struggling to make our paltry 181 so hopefully all is not lost.

I made it back from Melbourne. It was the second of a three day run of 43 degree days, it was their hottest since 1939 and the longest 40+ day run on record. I normally enjoy my visits to Melbourne, but then I'm normally on an air conditioned plane rather than the slow non air conditioned train from Geelong. It was great nevertheless to catch up with Michael and Calida from Challenger, and then attend a very high brow session on how APRA plan to deal with the excesses in executive remuneration in the financial system (which I've been doing my best to contribute to over the last three years or so). It was edge of your seat stuff let me tell you and I only just managed to make it past security in my best travelling attire, beard and increasingly wild hair.

Things luckily have cooled off a bit since. 38 degrees felt like a cool change but the fire bans have continued. We've had 9 in the last 12 days. Fire bans mean we can't use our gas burner, which means no cooked food and no hot water (for coffee or washing).

We headed on down the Great Ocean Road the day after my trip to Melbourne and made a short stop at the world famous surf spot at Bells Beach. It wasn't hard to see why this is such a challenging spot to catch a wave.

We also spotted our favourite Wicked Camper design since the Dirty Sanchez one in Seal Rocks (we assumed the middle aged people driving that one had no idea what it meant).



For anyone who has not seen it, go to YouTube and 'Beeched Is Bro' should get you to a fine Kiwi piss-take.













At our first camp spot we had some more top wildlife action. Our first Koala sighting in the wild, and also a baby kookaburra who hadn't learned how to laugh yet - it was hilarious.

We've since seen plenty more koalas, including three in the Portland caravan park we're currently in.













The Great Ocean Road has not disappointed. It was built following the first world war in memorial to the Victorians how had fought. The first bit, really from just south of Torquay to Apollo Bay was the most dramatic, road-wise. It was cut by hand from the cliff and provides some awesome twists and turns with great views up and down the dramatic coast.

By the time you get past Cape Otway to the most famous draw card - the Twelve Apostles - the driving gets a bit boring but there are more stops and walks to view points than my thongs were up to.

After our second day on the road we stopped at Johanna Bay, a huge free campsite set behind the sand dunes protecting a wild beach. No good for swimming unfortunately as we were both a bit ripe after two hot days in the car but not to worry.

We were a robbed of a good sunset by a stiff onshore breeze bringing in some moisture, but at least it cooled things down a bit and things cleared up overnight to give us a wonderful experience as we pressed on for the Twelve Apostles.

They say a picture says a thousand words, so I'll leave you with seven of them and get back to the cricket ...

Hope all are well and a reminder that any questions about the wedding can wait until we get back in September!