FLINDERS FINALE - Brachina East & Mambray Creek

We knew we were in for some weather as we headed south towards the Ikara - Flinders Ranges, and we were relieved that it didn't hit us until we were well and truly on the bitumen again. And more importantly OFF the Oodnadatta Track. Rain at best can be an inconvenience, at worst it can leave you stuck and stranded.

We pulled into Leigh Creek to pick up a few supplies, including water which we opted to buy this time. 

It was turning off the highway into Leigh Creek that we realised that neither indicators were working!

Certainly not ideal, as we would need to drive through Adelaide, and its traffic, in a day or two to get home. Andy was able to make an appointment with a mechanic the following day in nearby Copley to have it looked at, and hopefully fixed. This would mean a 220km/3 hour round trip including 40km of 4WD there and back. We knew the electrics were not 100% (an understatement), and they would need some TLC in the future. 

After arriving at Brachina East campground I checked the fusebox under dashboard and there were spare fuses. We identified the correct fuse for the indicators, and on a wing and prayer replaced it with one of the spare ones. Huzzah! It worked. It was just that the fuse had blown. The indicators were back in working order and the trip to Copley was cancelled. Hurray for us!

With that fixed it was time to get set up, and settle in to one of our favourite camp grounds in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges. We had camped here in the first few weeks of our trip and it felt like we were completing the circle.

 Driving into the front, complete with lightning and low, dramatic thunderclouds. What were we thinking? It did rain a bit as we sped down the highway, but had mostly finished by the time we arrived at the campground.

 More ad hoc fixes. Duct tape on a holey tent with rain forecast. It held up. No one, and no bedding got wet inside the tents.

 Outside was a different story, and quite wet. But we don't let that get in the way of some riverbed mud play. Dry or wet riverbed, it doesn't matter, they are amazing play spaces for kids to explore.

 Slightly drier...

Brachina East campground is nestled along the riverbed in Brachina Gorge, and is split into a 2WD and 4WD section. The 4WD part isnt too hairy but there are some pretty big rocks so you do need high clearance to access the gorge itself, as well as the campground. We did see a very anxious 2WD van. going through the gorge on our previous visit - I imagine they would have been checking underneath for damage once they got out.

 The view back towards our site. We had the best site (in our opinion). We were in the 4WD section and right up the end of a no through road so no passing traffic. There is so much space to wander and appreciate the bigness of this ancient, ruggedly beautiful landscape.

Last time we were here there was no grass. It was barren, dry and rocky. The transformation after winter rains was stunning. So much new green growth. We have never been to the Ikara-Flinders Ramges when it looks like this. It was a lovely surprise.

 It was really cold. And wet. So wet. Here we are early one morning. I am wearing layers and layers and pretty much all the warm things I have, including 2 pairs of pants!

 Taking a walk with my boy. James had noticed a whistling kite hunting over a flat section above the creek beds. Soaring and diving, and landing on the ground with its catch in its beak. We later noticed several whistling kite nests in the river gums in the creek beds. The bird life here at Brachina East is stunning; ringnecks, kookaburras (the proper laughing ones), splendid fair wrens, read breasted robins, kites, kingfishers and butcher birds. It was raucous at times.

 Touring around the Ikara-Flinders. We had stopped at the scree slope/rock wallaby viewing area to see if we could spot some. We had not seen any here before - turns out we weren't looking properly. They are much smaller than you think they should be, and virtually invisible unless they move. Luckily for us there were a few hopping across the slope.

 Playing in another riverbed, this time flowing.

We had 3 nights at Brachina East in the Ikara - Flinders Ranges. 

It was very foggy and wet on our first morning, and we had planned to do a walk. As we started to head off it started to drizzle in earnest. Normally I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of weather and just put appropriate gear on, and head out. The thing was, we were wearing ALL our warm gear, and had limited wet weather gear. To go for a walk in this very wet rain would mean everything getting soaked. And we had no way of drying it. Plus it was very cold. Once we were wet, that is how we would be staying.

We pivoted and decided to go for a drive up to Blinman. Despite consecutive days in the car, some of them quite long, the kids were really good about this. 

The plan was to do a loop drive; heading to Blinman North for some bakery treats ( and a spare fire lighter), drive west along Parachilna Gorge Road to collect some firewood, before heading south along the highway and back into the national park along Brachina Gorge road. The scenery is amazing.

 We stopped at the newly completed Heysen Trail Head in Parachilna Gorge. The Heysen Trail runs (or walks) for 1200km from here to Cape Jervis at the southern tip of the Fleurieau Peninsula. You can see how cold it is - this is about midday, and we are still rugged up. Brrr.

 We did manage to find some great firewood on our way through Parachilna Gorge and had a lovely fire. One of the perks of camping in the cooler weather.

 The gorgeous yellow footed rock wallabies. Jemma was the best wallaby spotter, but once you get your eye in and realise you are looking for mini kangaroos as they are very petite, they are much easier to find. They love to be up high, tucked in against the rocks, although this one seemed quite happy under a tree in the campground. 

 Euros in the campground one morning.

 Day two had us back at The Prairie Hotel - Parachilna for an end-of-trip blow-out lunch celebration. 

Jemma and I also were very brave and managed a shower at the traveller's amenity block. $2 each for a hot water shower was fine. The getting naked in a tin and concrete barn with the wind blowing through the cracks was not. After we warmed up, we felt much nicer, smug in our cleanliness. The boys are less inclined to risk hypothermia for hygiene and decided to wait another day before a hot shower.

 Fine dining. 

We had a wonderful lunch and talked about this epic adventure we have all been on, giving some thought to how we will answer the usual questions - how was your trip? what was your favourite part/thing? 

They are not easy questions to answer, as we have done and seen so much, and had some intense experiences as a family. Some things are easy to pinpoint as awesome, but other aspects of this kind of journey are harder to articulate. I will try and dedicate a blog post to addressing these questions later.

The more we talked about it all, the more we remembered. We each have our own perspective. When asked if we would like to do something like this again, the answer is a great, big YES! 

 Braised kangaroo tail got the thumbs up from James. He has been so adventurous, trying new foods, on this trip.

 Happy faces, full tummies. Some of us cleaner, and less smelly, than others.

 

I really love the Ikara - Flinders Ranges. I find the geology and landscape fascinating, and difficult to wrap my head around. There is wildlife everywhere you look. Having been here several times now, we have seen it in a few different seasons, each with their own characteristics. 

 Exposed ancient deposits of the Ikara-Flinders Ranges near Brachina Gorge, with riverbed in the foreground.

 Enormous huntsman surprised me in the loo!

 On our last morning at Brachina, and second last morning of the trip,  Jemma got stung not once, but twice on her eyelid by a giant ant that had walked into the tent. Poor kiddo. It looked very sore and she was pretty upset. We applied SOOV (magic stuff), being careful not to get it in her eyeball proper, and it settled down quickly after that thankfully.

Three nights went by in a flash and it was time to go. Another heavy pack down on this morning, tinged with some real excitement about the prospect of going home. Just one more night to go...

 Approaching the coast south of Port Augusta we got our first glimpse of the ocean since leaving Middle Lagoon on the Dampier Peninsula, north of Broome in mid July. Different ocean. Different state.

Having said we don't love one night stops, our last night was deliberately just that. For our last night we stayed at Mambray Creek campground in Mt Remarkable National Park. This was also where stayed on our first night on our previous trip with the kids - some more symmetry there, which I like. 

It provided a good staging position for the last push home, just 3hr 15 mins drive down the road. Easy peasy. With just one night, the idea was there would be no time for moping and we wouldn't have to wait long before we would be on our way again, and not too far at that. AND it is a beautiful spot. We felt it was a strong finish.

 The creek was flowing!

After arriving and finding our spot, just metres from the creek bed we could hear a white noise. What could it be? Water! And lots of it. We have only ever been here when the creeks have been dry so it was a real treat to see it like this. 

 Fallen trees are the perfect playground. Stakes made higher by the cold water flowing underneath, hehehehe.

 Lots of beautiful big trees line the creek

 "Not getting wet" - the usual! At this point I didn't care too much about the state of things as tomorrow I would have clear access to a washing machine, and could wash the day away if I pleased.

 Family selfie at Mambray Creek. I think we look relaxed, happy and excited. That's probably not a fair assessment as I clearly have the edge over our thoughts.

We spent our afternoon here weighing up whether to have a hot shower or not, playing in the creek bed, taking early morning walks, enjoying the shrieks and crazy noise of the huge flock of corellas. 

 It might be the last day/s but drink bottles still need filling, and coffee still needs to be made, and more importantly drunk.

We were up early and were on the road by 8:30, excited to be heading home to our dogs who must have just about given up on us by now. 

 In the car, on our way home, on 13th September 2025. And that's it. Done. Tour of WA (and a bit of SA and NT) 2025 = complete!